Mount Robson in Spring. Photo: Natasha Ewing

When driving east on Highway 16 towards the Continental Divide of the Rocky Mountains, there is a magical moment – good weather permitting – when the distinct outline and snow-capped peak of Mount Robson comes into perfect view. That’s the moment when just about every nature-lover squeals in amazement. Mount Robson is the tallest mountain in the Canadian Rockies and the namesake for Mount Robson Provincial Park, the second oldest park in British Columbia. The mountain is traditionally known as Tsyécelcten, which loosely translates to “Mountain of the Spiral Road,” in the Secwepemctsin language. [1]

“Welcoming hundreds
of thousands of visitors
each year, Mount Robson
Provincial Park is one of
nature’s special places.”

Over the last century, since its creation in 1913, Mount Robson Provincial Park has developed into one of the province’s flagship parks. In 1990, the park was designated as part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain World Heritage Site by UNESCO, alongside Hamber and Mount Assiniboine provincial parks, and Jasper, Banff, Kootenay, and Yoho national parks. Together, these seven parks create one of the largest protected areas in Canada, covering 23,068.84 square-kilometres.

Welcoming hundreds of thousands of visitors each year, Mount Robson Provincial Park is one of nature’s special places, offering excellent camping opportunities, diverse recreational activities, important habitat for flora and fauna, and stunning views. The park is home to many charismatic species, such as grizzly bears and wolves. It’s refuge for 182 documented species of birds, and it protects the headwaters of the mighty Fraser River.

Sun-kissed Berg Lake Glacier on Mount Robson’s north side. Photo: Natasha Ewing

One of Mount Robson’s greatest draws is the world-renowned Berg Lake Trail – twenty-three kilometres (one way) of extraordinary backcountry hiking amidst incredible scenery. Following the vividly blue Robson River, outdoor enthusiasts pass by towering mountains, dozens of thundering waterfalls, icy cold lakes, and the majestic glaciers that feed them.

A Shift in Climate

One of the earliest known photographs of the Robson Glacier was taken in 1911 by the Director and founding President of the Alpine Club of Canada, Arthur O. Wheeler. And in it, however grainy and faded, the terminus of the glacier is unmistakable, nearly extending to the shores of present-day Berg Lake. One hundred years later (2011), a repeat image taken by the Mountain Legacy Project highlights the startling retreat of the glacier. With significantly more rock exposed, the adjacent bedrock and debris continues to warm at an accelerated pace, further contributing to the recession of the Robson Glacier at nearly fifty metres per year.

“One of Mount Robson’s
greatest draws is the
world-renowned Berg
Lake Trail – twentythree
kilometres (one
way) of extraordinary
backcountry hiking
amidst incredible
scenery.”

In British Columbia alone, there are 15,000 glaciers totaling approximately three per cent (~28,342 km2) of the landmass. While that may not seem like much, the glacial ice across BC is larger than the country of Haiti (~27,750 km2) and would cover ninety per cent of Vancouver Island (28,156 km2). For Dr. Brian Menounos, Professor and Canada Research Chair for Climate Change at the University of Northern British Columbia, glacial monitoring and long-term data sets are extremely important for anticipating future trends and understanding how glaciers are responding to climate change. Glacier scientists are not “just documenting the demise of glaciers”; rather, they are collecting important data, including observational data to help develop, calibrate, and improve predictive models of glacier change. Monitoring glaciers is important as they act as freshwater reservoirs; their melt provides a critical cold-water source for plants, insects, and animals, and decreases water temperatures downstream. For some mountainous creatures sensitive to temperatures, this cold-water addition is fundamental to their survival and supporting a healthy ecosystem.

The Robson Glacier in 1911. Photo: A.O Wheeler. Courtesy of the Mountain Legacy Project and Library and Archives Canada / Bibliotheque et Archives Canada

Menounos’s research clearly shows that glaciers across the province, particularly in southwestern BC, are receding at an accelerated rate. Like so many things in nature, that change is not simply due to one factor – such as increased temperatures – but a series of exacerbating events. This includes events that sometimes appear unrelated on first glance. For example, increased summer temperatures elevate the wildfire hazard; an increase in fires means higher amounts of airborne ash and soot, material that eventually falls and covers glaciers, causing them to be less reflective and more absorbent of solar energy, which in turn increases glacial melt. These compounding effects cannot be treated independently, rather a whole-system approach is needed.

The Robson Glacier in 2011.Photo: The Mountain Legacy Project, School of Environmental Studies, University of Victoria

These types of cascading events are occurring more frequently, with one of the most dramatic events experienced in BC occurring in the summer of 2021. In late June, the province was in the midst of an intense “heat dome,” when record-breaking temperatures (as high as 49.6 Celsius in the interior) were documented for several days on end and linked to hundreds of deaths across the province. While everyone was feeling the challenging effects of the severe and prolonged heat, many were worried how nature would respond.

Alpine environments are among the ecosystems most detrimentally impacted. At 1,646 metres above sea level, the temperatures on the shores of Berg Lake were in the high thirties. As the heat dome continued for several days, Emergency Management BC (EMBC) estimated that 80-100 millimeters of snow water per day was expected and that flood warnings were in effect for the Upper Fraser River. In addition to the higher-than-normal temperatures, a major storm rolled through the area on July 1, releasing over 210 millimeters (twenty centimeters) of rain within hours.

Ultimately, the combination of heat, meltwater, and excessive precipitation conspired to create the perfect storm, and it resulted in one of the most the significant flood events to have occurred on Berg Lake Trail.

An Unimaginable Event

When Elliott Ingles became Mount Robson Area Supervisor in 2017, he immediately reviewed and updated the park’s emergency and evacuation plans, knowing that it was not a matter of if they would be needed, but when. The plans would serve as a guidebook for staff on the ground, laying out clearly the steps and procedures needed to be taken in a worst-case scenario.

On the afternoon of June 28, 2021, tired hikers emerged off the Berg Lake Trail full of excitement, good memories – and concern. They reported to park staff that there were a few spots along the trail that were flooded. Rangers immediately started up the trail expecting to find some minor flooding of the Robson River in a handful of the usual areas. By kilometer two, the river had poured over the bank, and likewise a little farther up the trail – all in places where flooding hadn’t occurred before. Hoping that what they had found was the worst of it, staff got busy creating a trail reroute to avoid the deepest sections that afternoon.

An email from EMBC the next day warned that the Upper Fraser River was being placed under a flood warning, and that the area was at further risk should rain occur. Unsure of what was in store for the Robson River, staff began to carefully monitor the situation, and planning commenced in earnest. Ingles proactively called the BC Wildfire Service to ask for assistance in the coming days should the flooding increase. Backcountry hikers heading up the trail on June 29 were educated about the standing water on the trail and advised to use extra caution.

The following day, June 30, was a critical turning point. Fifty percent of the trail – between the trailhead and Kinney Lake – was suddenly submerged under more than a half-metre of standing water. Cold and fast-flowing water breached the riverbanks, rushing around bridges, and numerous reports of completely submerged campsites and bear-proof caches were coming in. And in those sections of the trail that weren’t submerged, large cracks were appearing, suggesting heavy erosion and slumping activity from underneath.

A decision was promptly made to close the trail on June 30, and to immediately halt any hikers wishing to head into the backcountry. The challenge, however, were the 250-plus hikers who were still on the trail, stretched out over the twenty-three kilometres.

Bridge at Emperor Hill on July 2 highlighting the changing river conditions and the rock debris. Photo: Sean Allin

A team of first responders began a trail-wide evacuation. Fortunately, on July 1, it was still possible for the majority of park visitors to walk out on their own. The BC Wildfire Service and BC Parks staff began a coordinated effort to inform hikers of the conditions, with personnel stationed along the trail to monitoring water levels, aid hikers, and provided information on the best course of action. Families with young children were encouraged to hike to their abilities and, if necessary, stay overnight at one of the designated check-in sites. With the incredible heat – temperatures were still in the mid-thirties – and challenging trail conditions, many backpackers were unable to hike out in a single day. Elliott Ingles recalls the staggering heat of the day: “the glaciers,’ he said, “appeared to be sweating.”

Thankfully, parks staff were well equipped with water filters and made sure hikers stayed hydrated throughout their longer-than-expected trek. By the evening, sixty per cent of the trail-users had made it out to safety. The remainder had checked-in at either Berg Lake, Marmot, Whitehorn, or Kinney Lake campsites and were anticipating hiking out the following day.

Map of Berg Lake Trail. The four campgrounds that were deemed “check-in” spots during the evacuation are highlighted.

Although no Canada Day fireworks were lit off that night, Mother Nature had, it seemed, would have a show of her own.

Rangers stationed at the Berg Lake Cabin could feel the air shift as bright red clouds began rolling in from the north. In mere seconds, a thunderclap exploded, ricocheting off the surrounding mountains. Rain came pouring down – sideways sheet rain mixed with heavy blanket rain. Hail the diameter of dimes came crashing down, and lightning flashed repeatedly, illuminating the cabin like a dance club with multiple strobe-lights. Within six hours that night, over 210 millimeters (twenty centimeters) of rain fell. Ingles had never experienced a storm like it in his life. He immediately became concerned how this surge of additional water was impacting the Robson River.

Tired hikers woke up on July 2 to clear skies, and to news that several bridges on the upper half of the trail were completely gone, impassable due to the damage caused by mobile rocks and boulders, or fully submerged in water. The river had risen a whopping six metres overnight, completely submerging the bridge at Whitehorn Campground and disconnecting the campground from the remainder of the trail. It was quickly realized that anyone camping at Whitehorn or further up the trail would not be able to get out on their own. A new plan was immediately set in motion.

Local RCMP activated Search and Rescue (SAR) to assist hikers coming down from Kinney Lake and to spearhead helicopter-assisted evacuations for the fifty now-stranded backpackers. Park staff coordinated hikers into groups for a heli pick-up at each location, while SAR provided guidance on how to safely board a helicopter. Constant communication between Rangers and SAR members was necessary to confirm that every hiker had been accounted for. While some hikers were more than ready to leave the Berg Lake Trail behind, others enjoyed the unexpected helicopter ride and saw it as the exciting highlight of a two-day adventure.

A Coordinated Effort

By early evening on July 2, every hiker was safely evacuated from the Berg Lake Trail with no reported injuries. As a guiding principle, BC Parks strives to provide an excellent visitor experience and ensure park users get home safely. Despite a heat wave, excessive flooding, an unparalleled storm, and a complex evacuation, everyone made it out safely – a huge success for staff and supporting agencies on the ground. However, this would have been a very challenging task without hikers being respectful of the situation and following directions. The evacuation plans Elliott Ingles had updated during the first few months in his role as Area Supervisor were executed and proved to be incredibly valuable. Ingles had emphasized fostering strong relationships with local responders and government agencies, and was thus able to call on the highly skilled people he needed to ensure a successful evacuation. Each organization – BC Wildfire, SAR, Park Operators, EMBC, Yellowhead Helicopters, and the RCMP – were there and ready to help navigate the dangerous situation. Despite the constant changes in weather, the dynamic state of the Robson River, and the day-to-day unknowns that continued to present themselves, the overall evacuation was relatively “uneventful due to careful and detailed planning.”

A Series of Tough Decisions

Throughout what remained of the 2021 season, the trail continued to see substantial changes each day. Park staff worked extremely hard to install temporary bridges, however, within hours or days the Robson River would shift, and those bridges would again be washed out. In some places, the opposite happened – three bridges that normally had two metres of water under them would become elevated pathways over dry riverbeds. Recognizing the safety hazards of allowing hikers back on the trail during such unpredictable changes in the river, BC Parks’ first big decision was to keep the trail closure above Kinney Lake in place for the remainder of the season.

For Adrian Batho, BC Parks’ Conservation Specialist for the Omineca Peace Region, the most surprising part of the Berg Lake Trail flood was the magnitude of change within the Robson River – particularly its movement across the entire valley. As Batho noted, “there are an infinite number of potential pathways the river could choose throughout the Kinney Flats; it is all mobile material.”

Engineering around nature, unpredictable rivers, and potential future events is not an easy task, especially while preserving the Berg Lake Trail’s international status as an exceptional “beginners backpacking trip.” Knowing that bridges were completely gone or deemed unsafe, that excessive slumping and erosion along the trail had occurred, and that rivers channel had significantly shifted, BC Parks had a series of tough decisions to make when considering how to rebuild.

Historically, the first seven kilometres of the trail (Trailhead to Kinney Lake) was deemed a “front-country trail,” as it was open to a wide variety of users, accessible for a range of abilities, and required virtually zero navigational skills. The trail beyond, from Kinney Lake to Berg Lake, was deemed a “backcountry trail.” BC Parks thoroughly reviewed the options of rebuilding to historical “trail” standards or downgrading all or sections of the trail to a “route,” which meant little-to-no infrastructure and limited navigational aids, thus requiring increased backcountry skills from users. As the Berg Lake Trail has high use from a variety of users with varied mobility needs, is an international destination, and is relatively easy to access, BC Parks intends to rebuild the entire trail to previous “trail” standards.

It will take time to rebuild to “trail” status and mitigate risks along the way. The Berg Lake Trail’s “new normal” will take years to harmonize. This recognition meant that a third tough decision for BC Parks had to be made: and that is to keep the trail closed throughout the 2022 season and prepare for a phased-opening approach. By first focusing on rebuilding the lower section of the trail (Trailhead to Kinney Lake), park managers and contractors will have time to see what shifts occur farther up the trail. Although the rebuild is expected to take several years, Adrian Batho sees the reset as smart: “we have the opportunity to use a variety of tools to mitigate risks, make educated decisions, and balance the speed of reconstruction with thoughtful reconstruction.”

Next Steps: Rebuilding with Climate Resiliency in Mind

While the likelihood of another significant flood event in the Robson River is challenging to predict, one thing is clear. This flood occurred due to the “perfect” combination of excessive temperatures, rapid melting, and additional rain. However, as Dr. Brian Menounos warns, “one should prepare for future events. Heat waves will not only continue, but they are also expected to become more frequent.” And what is one supposed to do when a 1000-year event becomes, say, a 50-year event? Or one that reoccurs even more commonly?

As BC Parks navigates this next stage of rebuilding, there are many questions: What tools are available to mitigate risks and make educated decisions? How can we balance changes in climate with recreation while protecting biodiversity and ecosystem processes? How does one build with climate resiliency in mind?

Heli-slinging equipment up the trail to begin removing unsafe bridges and debris. Photo: Mike Palangio

From Batho’s perspective, building with climate resiliency in mind means “looking at the standard we are striving towards and then putting on a lens that takes into consideration what the trail could experience.” To do this effectively, it is critical that staff understand the hazards that are present, potential future climate impacts, and be able to make educated decisions based on available information. We have an opportunity to work through this systematically, mitigate future risks, and not play environmental “whack-a-mole.”

Fortunately, there are many tools to support BC Parks in understanding the landscape and changing climate. For example, remote sensing and aerial photography permit a better understanding of the hazards on a landscape, as well as the changes that might occur due to severe weather. Climate modeling for the region projects changes that will likely occur in future climate scenarios. Collaborating with glacial scientists, like Dr. Brian Menounos, and the Hakai Institute, allow for information sharing, cross agency learning, and partnerships related to climate change adaptation. These tools, and others, will all support the re-development of the Berg Lake Trail and assist BC Parks in making appropriate decisions for the trail in the long-term.

“Engineering around nature, unpredictable rivers, and potential future events is not an easy task, especially while preserving the Berg Lake Trail’s international status as an exceptional “beginners backpacking trip.””

Additional monitoring tools installed by BC Parks, such as cameras and staff gauges, will help identify shifts in the Robson River in near real-time. The cameras take snapshots at five-minute intervals, gathering photo-evidence of how the river changes overtime, while the staff gauges will quantify the water level and help highlight potential blockages or flood conditions. Through this ongoing river assessment, it may prove necessary to mitigate hikers’ time spent near the river and consider options to rebuild aspects of the trail well-beyond the dynamic river zones. At the end of the day, Mother Nature will choose where the river will go – and BC Parks will adapt and engineer around it.

In advance of the 2022 annual spring freshet, all structures along the trail that were damaged beyond repair must be removed so they do not become additional obstructions should the river flood or shift again. Some structures need to be repaired and have abutments secured, while other bridges that are sitting high and dry need to be relocated. All equipment and personnel must be helicoptered in and out – one of the many challenges with working in isolated environments. And of course, snow-free conditions are needed to begin construction, and crews will need to work expeditiously and complete as much as possible before the early-autumn flurries return.

Over the next few years, BC Parks expects the rebuilding of the Berg Lake Trail will not be without unexpected challenges. New questions will arise. Staff, partners, engineers, hydrologists, and contractors will be learning, re-assessing, and making changes as we navigate this complex and challenging project over the next three years.

Conclusion

Area Supervisor Elliott Ingles doesn’t mince words when asked what was the biggest lesson to be taken from the 2021 floods: “Mother Nature rules over the park,” he says, “we must adapt and come up with solutions to make recreation safe, while respecting park values and the ecosystem it inhabits.”

“Additional monitoring tools installed by BC Parks, such as cameras and staff gauges, will help identify shifts in the Robson River in near real-time.”

When news about the Berg Lake Trail closure went out, park visitors recognized the challenges associated with climate change impacts. It continues to become clear that climate-related events are increasing in both frequency and magnitude, causing dramatic impacts in a variety of ways. Consequently, we will continue needing to creatively work together in order to overcome and mitigate these challenges.

Our changing climate means an unpredictable and uncertain future. While BC Parks works to understand and adapt to the risks, park users can do also do their part. This means recreating responsibly, following park rules, and acting as environmental stewards. The Berg Lake Trail closure may offer a wonderful opportunity for reset and refocus – to reflect on and incorporate a new adaptability in conservation and recreation.

Natasha Ewing is BC Parks’ Community Liaison Officer for Northern British Columbia. She first hiked the Berg Lake Trail in 2019, and has been enamoured with Mount Robson Provincial Park ever since.

The author wishes to thank the following individuals for agreeing to be interviewed for this article: Adrian Batho, Conservation Specialist, Omineca/Peace, BC Parks; Andrea Zemlak, Recreation Section Head, Omineca/Peace, BC Parks; Dr. Brian Menounos, Hakai Institute Affiliate / Professor and Canada Research Chair, Department of Geography, Earth, and Environmental Sciences, University of Northern British Columbia; and Elliot Ingles, Mount Robson Area Supervisor, BC Parks.

References

1. As the written form of Secwepemctsín evolves, spellings of place names have changed. Mount Robson has also been known as Tsyexyexéscen or Yexyexhésqen, both of which are variants of Tsyécelcten. Tsyécelcten comes from engagement with Secwepemctsín language speakers from the Simpcw First Nation.

A Path to Recovery: The Berg Lake Trail Flood at Mount Robson